Following from my previous post on glycolic and lactic acid, this post will look at alternative ways to treat Post Inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Treating PIH with Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone is described in many dermatological journal publications as the central component of PIH treatment. In short, the compound blocks the conversion of melanocytes by contributing to the degradation of melanin in the skin. In other words, hydroquinone, not only lightens the skin but it also works to prevent the formation of dark marks from new break outs. Concentrations of 2-10% are considered safe for topical use on the skin, although higher concentrations may need to be prescribed by a doctor.
Recently products containing hydroquinone are combined with other pigment fighting compounds such as retinoids, vitamin C, kojic acid, alpha-hydroxy acids to prevent dark marks and lighten/brighten the skin.
The previous controversy regarding hydroquinone as a safe product for skin care has been counteracted through appropriate research. When used appropriately and in conduction with other active ingredients, it can serve as one of the best methods for preventing and treating dark spots.
Treating PIH with Vitamin C
The chemical term for vitamin C is Ascorbic acid. This compound is a powerful anti-oxidant naturally occurring in layers of the skin. Ascorbic acid fights PIH by reducing activity in the melanin synthetic pathway. So like hydroquinone and it prevents as well as lightens pigment on the skin. In addition to these properties, products with a high concentration of vitamin C also boast anti-inflammatory, photo protective (over exposure to the sun) and anti-ageing properties.
Due to the highly unstable nature of ascorbic acid, derivatives of the compound were created. You might find vitamin c in your products in the form of ascorbyl-6-palmitate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. These derivatives are much more stable and convert to ascorbic acid once in the skin.
Although vitamin c is very effective in treating PIH, inadequate knowledge of the active ingredient may lead to counteractive effects on the skin. The following tips will be useful when purchasing vitamin c serums and moisturisers
- As maximum absorption occurs at 20%, a concentration of 10-20% is typically needed to see elaborate results. It is useful to note that the higher the concentration, the less absorption will occur (The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2010). Hence, I will advise the use of 7-15% as this level of concentration will minimise levels of irritation and well as ensure maximised absorption.
- When buying serums, try to make sure that water is not one of the first ingredients. As previously mentioned, vitamin C is water soluble and will oxidise when placed in water or exposed to air without a stabilising agent.
- Make sure your serum or cream is placed in suitable packaging. That is; a dark glass jar with pump packaging to shield the product from exposure to light and air.
Note: If your vitamin C serum starts to turn brown or orange after a couple uses, you know its time to throw it out as it has oxidised and will be less effective on problem areas.